“Wine is a union between man and nature, of man within nature.” José Luís Durand

Bottling day was upon me. I’d made my final blends a few weeks earlier and the wine tasted great. I was ecstatic. I sent samples to the lab and the results indicated all were within perfect, healthy ranges. A week later I clarified the three barrels of blended wine with egg white. Two days before bottling I added sulfites according to a formula that is determined by the pH of the finished wine. I borrowed two siphons and a corker, set up a barrel washing area out back and lined up my Dream Team.

Yup, you guessed it, my Dream Team first arrivals

Around 11 am or so the first of my bottling team showed. Big Dave and Don-the-engineer. Shortly on their heels came Tom and Zöe. Introductions were made, I cranked the music, ushered the dogs out, opened the curtains and …. Everyone waited expectantly for me to tell them what to do. HA! I had no idea. I’d never done this before! We awkwardly and humorously fumbled around for a bit trying to figure out how to best set up stations and get the ball rolling. It was a little bit of a Keystone Cops kind of scene! Don-the-engineer got the siphon working. Tom took up the other end to begin filling bottles. The flow was not as easy to manage as one would hope so I put a bowl under the bottles to catch overflow. David set up a station to top off the bottles so that they would be more or less equal. Zöe and I took turns corking, keeping Tom with empty bottles to fill, storing the filled bottles cork side down and labeling the cases.

My FIRST bottle of wine!!!

It didn’t take long before we were operating like a well-oiled machine …. But it was a festive occasion and I wanted to share my new wine. I was anxious for everyone to try it! This was a super important occasion for me. A real milestone, and I wanted my friends to have the first taste of my beautiful, proud creation. With my wine thief I pulled a sample of “Lady in Red” from the barrel. This is my structured blend that has a formula based on my earlier blending taste tests. 60% Mourvédre, 35% Grenache, 5% Syrah. I took the first sip and … it didn’t taste right. I was crestfallen!!!! All the stirring and clarifying and sulfiting activity had stressed the wine and it was not at its best. I passed it around for everyone to try but could sense the disappointment. We were all hoping for an elixir that would express something about the love, hard labor and tender efforts I had poured into my wine and instead were treated to a flat, distressed vino lacking aromas. I felt like crying!

Tom filling bottles, Zöe on the corker

We drank it anyway, I might add, and in spite of the anti-climax and apologies the wine did contribute to the joviality of the day.

Keep the vino coming, David!

I recently attended a wine maker’s conference at the Oenology and Gastronomy department of UABC, an event hosted by the Festival de las Conchas. José Luís Durand, wine maker of Sinergi and a consultant to many, of Chilean origins, spoke on aromas.  José Luís is not only one of the most talented wine makers in Mexico but he is a gifted orator and I was completely transported. Among other things I learned that aromas have a molecular existence. They actually consist of physical chains, some more delicate than others. When wine is stirred, shook up or otherwise disturbed, those chains will break. They’ll find their way back to one another eventually, but it takes some time. And since most of what we “taste” are actually the aromas, the less we smell, the more insipid our experience becomes.

José Luís Durand with participants of the conference

Don left, Pat the chocolate lady came, then later, Bernandino the local cooper popped in to lend a hand and poco a poco we made it through two of the three barrels. By the end of the day I was bone-weary but we got a LOT accomplished and I could never have done it without FRIENDS! A week and a half later we scheduled the last barrel. Tom the intrepid, Susan, Dennis, Donna and Claire lent their muscle and good cheer to the day. We drank and laughed, the wine that had rested for awhile tasted better and the differences between the two blends were distinctive. Yay!!!! The next bottling adventure won’t be until sometime in September or October. Phew! A thousand thanks to my “Dream Team” bottling buddies for being there when I really needed you!

Don with his sample bottle of “Lady in Red”

Zöe was very popular with my babies!

Second shift: barrel washing with Pat

Pat and Bernandino, working while sipping

Towards the end of the day … tired but happy.

2nd bottling day and Tom is back!

Susan compares “Lady in Red” to “50 Shades of Red”

Tom, Claire, and Donna on day 2. Yay!

Dennis has honorary “wine maker hands”

Oh, and guess what Dear Readers and Devoted Fans of Bacchus?

I’ve got wine for sale!!!!!!

A good and wise friend of mine told me a few days ago that “being self employed means thinking while others sleep.” He couldn’t have put it better and I’ve lost a few nights sleep lately trying to wrap my head around the wine bottling conundrum.  Yes, it is that time. It’s wine-o’clock: Time to Bottle!

In the wine room with my newly purchased bottles and corks

Two weeks ago it became apparent that it was time to make my final blends. I needed a wine pump to do that and my supplier in San Diego had none in stock. I found one in Ensenada and am convinced that it was the ONLY small wine pump in the whole city! (Don’t try and tell me otherwise) The pump came to me with a couple of wires sticking out and I was advised to go to any hardware store to get what I’d need to plug it into the wall. Talk about a goat rodeo. I went to Home Depot where five employees gathered around to determine just exactly what I needed to make my new pump run. The magic formula it was agreed upon by consensus is that I needed a transformer (among other things). My wine pump is 12 volt and my house is 110 … a recipe for disaster? Unfortunately Home Depot in Ensenada did not have what I needed so they happily sent me down the road with a few suggestions. I searched high. I searched low. I followed every lead and still could not scare up the magical transformer that would allow me to carry on with my winemaking work.

I sang my woes to another friend and he suggested using a car battery to make the pump run. Voila! I got the neighbor kid across the street to help me and naturally he was completely nonplussed. He took the battery out of my car and hooked the pump to it like it’s something you do everyday. Gotta love Mexico.

The new wine pump attached to my car battery. Viva Mexico!

Dear readers and devoted fans of Bacchus, as you recall my barrels do not fit through the door of my wine room and every time I rack them I have to take a window out and huff the barrels up and through in order to rinse them of sediment before returning the wine to them. Hey. We do what we gotta do, right?

They’re heavier than they look

Blending day was a fun day and I could not have been happier with the results. Utilizing my taste buds along with the principles of the Golden Proportion as suggested by friend and wine making mentor, Aime Desponds, I discovered the sweet spot in my formulas.

Blending vino with my neighbor, Luis

My first two releases will be Lady in Red, a Mourvédre based blend with Grenache and Syrah. And 50 Shades of Red, a Grenache based blend with Mourvédre, Syrah, Cab Rouge (another name for Cabernet Sauvignon) and a smidgeon of Barbera. They’re both yummy, fresh young wines, very lightly barreled but with good body. My lab analysis of the finished blends put my mind at ease. They both are stable and healthy and have perfect pH. Lady in Red has 13.8% alcohol and 50 Shades has 13.4% … not bad if you ask me …. !

A few days ago I added egg white to the barrel to help clarify before bottling. I’ve racked the wines several times and there is almost no sediment but this commonly utilized method also binds with astringent tannins to help round out the mouth-feel of the wine.

Egg white, wine, a pinch of salt!

I scheduled a bottling date with Paralelo, one of Hugo D’Acosta’s wineries and associated with the local wine school I attended last fall, and eagerly set to figuring out the logistics ….. pumping wine from barrel to tambo, hauling barrels through the window to rinse them outside, hauling 200 liter tambos filled with wine to a pick up truck which I had yet to find, hauling 65 cases of wine bottles into same yet-to-be-found truck, hauling all of the above over bumpy dirt roads to a winery that has several other producers bottling that same day, putting my precious elixir through their mechanized system, hauling all the cases of filled wine bottles back to my casa and unloading them along with the empty tambos … Exhausting! I started worrying about the vino. Wine does not like a lot of movement. It does not like rough handling. Gentleness and minimum intervention are the keys! Bottle-shock (otherwise known as bottle sickness) is a real phenomenon that occurs when wines are subject to vibrations, travel, changes of temperature and light … in short, though some degrees of bottle-shock are almost impossible to avoid, wine makers jump through hoops to minimize the upset and protect their wines from the unpleasant discordancy that results from excessive manhandling.

I tossed and turned. I laid awake truly obsessed with the outcome of the wine with which my future will be determined. An epiphany of sorts hit me. And the solution was right under my nose …. Bottle at home, durrrr. It’s only three barrels, around 625 liters, approximately 800 or so bottles …. Why complicate my life and risk the health of my beautiful hand-crafted wine?

So this is it. I’ve got a friend or two coming by to help. All will be well in wine-landia. My sleepless nights are coming to a close (for now) … Stay tuned for the results!

Happy Spring Holidays!

Dry-farmed old vines with new Spring growth

Weekend roadside stands often offer artisanal wines with their local olives, marmalades and such.

Not infrequently I hear complaints from visitors to the wine valley that Mexican wines are just too darned pricey. Not everyone can afford to drink $30 bottles of wine every day. For those of you who DO regularly purchase and enjoy Guadalupe Valley wines in the $20 – $50 + range, you may still find the purpose of this blog post edifying. I set out to discover, explore and report on the best value wines for $20 and under. For the purpose of this post I am not including the larger wineries who you will find represented at Sorianos, Calimax and Walmart. Rather I sought out the boutique and the artisanal; in short the small-production bodegas and backyard wine makers who proudly sell their wares.

WHITE IS WHITE

If you are a white wine lover, you are in luck. The valley produces a variety of lovely varietals including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Palomino, Viognier, Colombard and Moscatel and nearly every winery produces at least one affordable white. Following are my top picks:

The Bravos are good neighbors. I adore them!

JC Bravo’s Palomino is a fresh, uncomplicated dry white wine with terrific versatility. 200 pesos (around $16)

Emevé is an aesthetically hip place to hang out for a vinito or two on the weekends

Emevé produces a very respectable Chardonnay. This wine passes through stainless steel for 18 months then 3 more in American oak barrels. Gold in color with a honeydew bouquet and a bite of mid-palate green apple. Just a hint of spicy oak. 160 pesos (around $13)

Las Nubes (the clouds) has a commanding view of the valley

Las Nubes. “Kuiiy” (Kiliwa word for cloud). 50/50 Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay. Fragrant with melon, apricot and grapefruit. Refreshing and clean, a lovely accompaniment to seafood. 200 pesos (around $16)

Mogor Badan has old world charm perfectly integrated with rural Mexican elegance

Mogor Badan. Chasselas. Grassy, bright, refreshing, palate cleansing and I adore the label. 200 pesos

I have to be honest with you. Few white wines leave a lasting impression with me but Quinta Monasterio’s “Natal” knocked my socks off.  An irresistibly fresh Chardonnay aged in 500 liter French oak barrels for 4 months. Loaded with orchard fruits, most notably peach, and with delectable hints of butterscotch. 200 pesos

Quinta Monasterio is dripping with old rural Mexican charm. Que romantico!

My new favorite white, however is Andrés Blanco’s just-released “Ulloa Quinto Bueno,” a Sauvignon Blanc blended with a splash of Moscatel di Canneli. This is a maverick of a white and quite untraditional. Highly perfumed with delicate aromas of orange blossom and loaded with luscious tropical fruit like guanabana and without the edginess I often associate with a Sauv Blanc. This is an uexpectedly friendly, plush and well-structured white with a lingering finish. Cellar door price is a steal at 180 pesos (under $15!) Ask me about the meaning of “quinto bueno.”

PRETTY IN PINK

Rosés are undergoing a renaissance around the world and Guadalupe Valley is no exception. Long maligned due to over commercialization of insipid, sweet rosés lacking in character and complexity; European styled dry rosés are making a comeback. Terrific accompaniments to summer salads and spicy BBQ’s. Perfect sippers on their own. Here are a few I’ve found:

The Retorno winery is built using straw bale methods (with inbed wine bottles)

Vinícola Retorno offers “Piluchas,” a dry rosé of 50/50 Zinfandel/Grenache. Enologo Adrián García is a professor at UABC and has a charming little bodega in his backyard. This wine has lovely acidity, a dusting of mineral tannins and a hint of cocoa to round out the bright red fruit in this delightful, young and quite richly colored wine. Juicy and aromatic. 180 pesos (under $15)

Pau Pijoan explaining his methods

Viñedos Pijoan has “Convertible Rosa” (Pink Cadillac). This wine is a departure from Pau’s cult wines named after his wife and daughters. His European style dry rosé of Zinfandel, Grenache and Colombard is fruity on the nose, crisp and sophisticated on the palate. Expect strawberry, raspberry and juicy hibiscus flowers with a touch of sour cherry. Fresh and vivid with a clear violet/pink color. 180 pesos (under $15)

Moebius “Antithesis” is a Mourvédre based dry rosé with Chenin Blanc and a splash of Syrah. An understated dry rosé demonstrating unripe strawberry on the palate with pronounced acidity and a hint of minerality and green herbs. I get a whiff of gamey truffles on the nose too. Wine maker Andrés Blanco suggests pairing this wine with raw seafood. 180 pesos (under $15)

It’s always gratifying to spend time with a talented wine maker like Andrés.

“Ulloa Rosado,” a dry rosé of Tecate-grown Nebbiolo is a phenomenal, distinctive fruit-saturated wine with hints of clay pot and a most pleasing, fresh berry patch sweetness that is almost too delicious for words. I’ve never been so excited about a rosé. It’s a tour de force and if it was up to me everybody would be drinking this wine and the world would be a happier place. 180 pesos (under $15)

The iconic Casa Vieja, an historical valley landmark

RED RED WINE

If you’re like me, red wine is your go-to beverage of choice. Now don’t get me wrong. I dig me some Chateau Lafite or Mouton any day of the week and I wouldn’t turn my nose up at a Barrachi Super Tuscan or a Napa Valley Sloan red … but that’s just not in my budget at the moment. Hence, I’ve adjusted my palate to less extravagant predilections and have been rewarded with the hearty, rustic, artisanal wines that speak honestly of the heart, heat, earth, sea breeze, sweat and passions formed in the crucible of our Guadalupe Valley. Hey, was I getting poetic just then?

The “Raul experience” is one-of-a-kind

Raul’s Cava. The only way to find Raul is for a mutual friend to take you there. He hangs no signs on the road or in front of his house yet any day of the week you can find locals stopping by Raul’s for a shared cup in his rustic underground wine cellar. His wines are handcrafted and uncomplicated and his dry Cabernet is only 70 pesos (that’s under 6 bucks, folks!) Raul’s wine is the true “underground” experience. Let me know if you want to go.

Don Abel continues the artisanal wine making methods that have been in his family for fifty years

La Cava de los Reyes. The Reyes family has been making artisanal wine for over 50 years. Abel Reyes was born and raised in Valle de Guadalupe and ages his wines exclusively in glass carboys. He produces one sweet wine which I don’t care for but his dry Cabernet Sauvignon is quite respectable, and I rather enjoy his dry, fruit-forward Syrah. His vineyard is organically farmed and Abel only uses native yeasts. His wines are sulfited but unfiltered. Abel and his wine can be found only on Saturdays and Sundays at km 88 right across from the Villas del Valle turn-off on the Tigre road. For 100 pesos (around $8) it’s hard to beat.

Tom Toscano pointing out some of the old old vines from which he crafts his wine

La Casa Vieja, one of the best-loved spots for locals to wine and dine has a slew of friendly, easy-drinking young wines that are fun, refreshing and uncomplicated. Wine maker Tom Toscano utilizes organic methods in his vineyards, allows his wines to ferment naturally with native yeasts and does not sulfite. He barrels his wines primarily in neutral wood to preserve the expression of the fruit. Tom’s current favorite is his Grenache, a lovely bright ruby colored wine, aromatic, young, fruity and well-balanced. A bottle of Tom’s Grenache will set you back 160 pesos (around $13) I have to confess to you though that I’m currently fascinated with his Mission wine. This wine is made from some of the oldest vines in the valley. Mission grapes are not known to deliver robust or complex wines, nevertheless I think that Tom has worked with them enough to pull out their fullest expression. I think it’s a terrific table wine and for 80 pesos a bottle ($6.50), you can’t go wrong. Or pick up a jug for 200 pesos ($16)!

Some of Casa Vieja’s old vines …. beautiful!

Vinos de J Martino offers three wines under her “Tango” label, all for only $20. If you like a fruit-forward, jammy California-styled Zinfandel, you’ll love her “Solo Tango” which is a consistent crowd pleaser and a highly popular beverage among local ex-pats. “Tango Pasión” is her Nebbiolo, a big, inky and tannic wine which improves with a hard decant and is a cellar-worthy wine with terrific aging potential. My favorite is her “Two to Tango,” a robust blend of the Zinfandel and Nebbiolo which displays ripe dark fruit, great body and a long finish. Keep an eye out for Jo Ann’s soon-to-be released Chardonnay! Contact Jo Ann Martino (aka: Joanna Jones) directly for sales: joann.joannajones@gmail.com.

Besitos de Baja offers a luscious and elegant “Amistoso” made of Tempranillo, Syrah and Grenache. Look for black cherry, strawberry, violet, and tobacco on the nose and a complex palate of red and dark fruits, cinnamon, black pepper, and notes of wood and vanilla. Fragrant and delicious! $20. Besitos de Baja also offers an exquisite “Vin Apertif Rouge” a red dessert wine bursting with exotic flavors and a heady nose of orange, ripe plum and sweet vanilla. Full-blown on the palate, look for black cherry, bitter orange, cinnamon and dark chocolate. Enjoy this wine for special occasions or as a daily digestif. 375 ml for $20. Contact Ann and Dennis directly for sales: besitosdebaja@gmail.com

Barón Balché, the largest boutique winery I’m featuring in this post has “Mexcla de Tintos” (essentially their house selección de barricas), a blend of Malbec, Grenache, Cab Franc and Carignan. A young, medium bodied red with pronounced tannins and a pleasant smokiness. 190 pesos (around $15) at the cellar.

Aime’s scrumptious vinito!

In my humble opinion, one of the best kept secrets in Guadalupe Valley is Swiss-born, retired chef Aime Despond’s winery Sol y Barro. Aime produces only one wine and his production is low. Sol y Tierra is an enticing and innovative blend of Petit Syrah, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon. His wine is complex, sophisticated, and full-bodied with exquisite forest berry flavors and a luscious palate. A steal for $20/pop.

Are you thirsty yet? There’s a tremendous variety here in the valley and it’s a thrill to continue my investigations. Lately I’ve had the pleasure to sample Paulo Paulini’s newly released Brunello and am smitten. I also had the delight of experiencing Andrés Blancos new wines and cannot stop talking about them. What talent and passion go into these elixirs!  Stay tuned for more. Next on my agenda are wine makers Alvaro Patanek, Oscar Obregón and Ludwig Hussong. Can’t wait to share!

I’m in love with Montefiori’s soft floral Brunello

Salud, my friends. (ching ching)

P.S. My wines are getting mighty spicy in the barrel. What an experience to witness their evolution. It’s über-wonderful. Thanks for tuning in xo

Tito and his olives at friendly Casa Vieja, my home away from home

Leo Torres pouring wine for Chef Mei and company on a chilly December day

Chef Mei was shivering. Her crimson shawl and slim white sweater were not enough to keep the Ensenada December chill off. Truly she had been a tad over-optimistic when she dressed for this blustery day. We are in Mexico where one expects sunshine and heat, wide-brimmed sombreros and spicy salsa. Yet it was cold and rainy and we were all chilled to the bone. Chef John Ash, Chef Mei Ibach, Liz Lynch and myself had embarked on a wine tasting tour of my beloved Valle de Guadalupe and were charmed by the rustic elegance of Tres Mujeres’ artisanal wines and the passionate innovations of Vinícola Torres Alegre. We’d braved some impressively rutted dirt roads, chattering and giggling all along, taking a few detours due to lack of signage and a lively dialogue that stole my attention.  It was time to refuel (our personal engines, not the car) so off we went to our next destination, Corazón de Tierra. It’s a bit of a treasure hunt looking for this jewel of a restaurant. But the prize is well worth the hunt.

Follow the brown and squiggly white signs!

Every time anyone asks me how to find the restaurant Corazón deTierra and/or its corresponding 5 star accommodations, La Villa del Valle, and/or the winery Vena Cava all owned and operated by Phil and Eileen Gregory, I tell them to follow those unassuming, slender brown signs with the squiggly white scrip that are hard to read till you’re right on top of them and altogether too easy to miss unless you really have your wits about you.

Phil and Eileen Gregory’s place is a slice of heaven

We were hungry as wolves after drinking wine on fairly empty stomachs and burning up calories trying to stay warm. I wanted our guest chefs to have an authentic Guadalupe Valley gastronomical experience and also to get a feel for the terrain … Oh boy did we get a feel for the terrain. Truly they were astonished by the seemingly labyrinthine twists and turns on yet another unpaved, bouncy, bone-jarring country road!

Gorgeous afternoon light at Corazon de Tierra

Corazón deTierra has been getting tremendous press recently. Every time I turn around there seems to be news about this phenomenal destination tucked away in the oft compared Tuscany-like rolling hills between Highway 3 and the Tigre Road. Even on a bleary, overcast, rainy day, it is an enchanting site.

The promise of thrilling refreshments in a spectacular locale … what more can one ask for?

Providentially as we arrived, late afternoon sunlight began to stream through the restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows and we chose a table that basked in golden light overlooking their extensive gardens. Corazón de Tierra is a farm-to-garden restaurant but definitions stop there. Chef Diego Hernandez has an imagination and palate that manages to push the envelope of one’s expectations while keeping his food fresh, lively and unpretentious. Indeed, the man is as charismatic as his food.

Chef Diego stops by our table for a chat

For details on our phenomenal food experience and Chef Diego’s take on Baja identity and gastronomy, check out my brief interview with him a week or so after the fact:

chef diego

Refreshing, palate cleansing Chasselas

Chef’s John and Mei chose a bottle of Mogor Badan’s Chasselas to share with Liz, and I had a glass of Phil’s Tempranillo which is my favorite single varietal Tempranillo in the valley. A muscular, savory, deep crimson red and a great match for hearty dishes. As it turns out the Chasselas was a better food pairing wine for our whimsical garden-fresh, seafood and pork punctuated meal. Nevertheless I never regret a glass of Phil’s terrific Tempranillo :p

I’m in love with this bacon and pea and squash flower infused song of a salad. Heaven.

Our five course, fixed plate meal was a symphony of surprising textures and flavors which tickled the taste buds of our discerning guests. For me the highlight was the salad! Okay, I am a salad nut but this was an extra-sensory experience of colors, aromas, changing flavors and harmonious textures. I’m still lusting after that salad experience.

Chef Diego with one of his dessert creations

Chef Diego visited with us. His youth, confidence, down-to-earth yet animated mannerisms and his startling sea-green eyes all combine to reflect his approach to food and indeed one imbibes the passion in every one of his dishes. It is as though he is riding a wave of instinct and discovery supported by his strong understanding of regional identity and his utter fearlessness as he approaches every component of a dish. It’s nothing short of a thrill.

Eileen Gregory and Chef John Ash

Phil and Eileen stopped by. Eileen was exquisitely bundled up for an evening party and Phil invited us to the cava for a post dinner wine tasting. Alas, this is the downside of touring our magical wine valley: it is impossible to fit everything into a day. I desperately wanted to share Vena Cava wines (and at least one other winery) with Chefs John and Mei but we had hit our limit for the day. They had a long trip back to Punta Banda on uneven roads with possible rain.

Tell us how you really feel, Chef Mei! Mmmm love that arugula sauce …

There’s only so much you can do in a day therefore we must be philosophical and look forward to the next Guadalupe Valley wine and food adventure …

Chef Mei and her infectious smile … we finally got her warmed up

“Ring the bell” at Tres Mujeres winery …

I adore giving tours of the wine valley where I live and work and introducing people to the distinctive wines from this region. So when my friend, Liz, from Punta Banda facebooked me and said she had some special friends visiting and wanted to take them winetasting, my mind started working immediately. We could take them here here and there! Or there there and here! Oh my, there are so many interesting wineries with AMAZING wines, it is hard to choose … Impossible to fit into one day. We could go rustic or we could go ultra sophisticated. We could stay on paved roads or really go off the beaten path. We could stick to a neighborhood or try to hit one in each mini-region of the valley. Some wineries have four or five wines– or dozens! — and a variety of tastings. Some wineries have only one or two wines (not to be overlooked!) Some wineries have very approachable, friendly winemakers and others not so much. When I discovered that Liz’s guests are both chefs, and world-renowned chefs at that, my challenge became even more discriminating.

Chefs John Ash and Mei Ibach at Jay Dworsky’s cava. Photo courtesy of Liz Lynch.

It is difficult to do more than three wineries in a day. Since I landed in the Valle de Guadalupe in May of last year I’ve made a career out of investigating the wines of the region, learning the history and culture, and talking with the winemakers and staff about their methods and philosophies. I try to go to at least a couple of wineries a week just to keep up on new releases, to talk shop, ask for advice, and to keep myself involved. Nevertheless I do not consider myself an expert! There is so much to learn and so many winemakers and wines that I have not yet discovered and are still on my horizon. By the same token, my nose and palette are an ever-developing work in progress so it’s valuable for me to return to past haunts, try again, and continue to compare notes.

Winemaker Ivette with her signature artisanal wines at Tres Mujeres.

Tasting on my own, without companions, I have managed to hit four wineries in a day … though my notes for the fourth winery are decidedly blurry. Recently I went on a tasting tour with a local sommelier, a chef, a student of enology and a couple of other wine maniacs and we managed four wineries. But we started at 10 AM and didn’t end till 7 PM. That’s pretty hard core! It’s not just that the pours are often generous and many people prefer not to waste wine in the spittoons, but also that our local gems are often spread apart on formidably bumpy, rutted dirt roads. Perhaps most importantly as I’ve mentioned in previous posts, wine is convivial. It’s not just about drinking. There are stories to tell, aesthetics to experience, tours to take, friendships to make and buckets of laughter and anecdotes. It is a full, sensory experience. Unless you’re a real pro it makes sense to squeeze less quantity and more quality into a day of touring and tasting.

On the morning that I met Liz and her friends Chef John Ash and Chef Mei Ibach it was cold, dark, rainy and altogether an inauspicious day weather-wise. We met at Los Globos, the wine and cheese shop at the only stoplight between Ensenada and Tecate on highway 3. Introductions were lively, and in good spirits we high-tailed it to Tres Mujeres Winery– a favorite of Liz’s and a thoroughly charming place to begin.

Ivette with a sculpture that was modeled after her and the wine which shares the same image on its label, Terrazas Grenache

Ivette Vaillard, along with Eva Cotero and Laura Macgregor combined resources to create a “cooperative” in order to develop their internationally recognized handcrafted wines. In the small, enchanting wine cellar at Tres Mujeres we sampled the three following wines:

2010 “Terrazas Grenache,” the result of a Zinfandel/Misión field blend and Grenache grown on a hillside terrace.  A fresh, bright, floral, light-to-medium-bodied red. A perfect summer wine for hot days and cold dishes. $20

2009 “Isme” Merlot de Eva, has a very strong following. Named after Eva Cortero’s daughter, Ismene who is a chef. Very spicy with lots of black pepper, dense ripe fruit and pronounced oak. $20

Our overall favorite was “La Mestiza,” a Franco-Mexican blend which is 1/3 Syrah grown in Feillunas, a village in Languedoc-Roussillon (in the south of France, bordered by Spain and the Mediterranean Sea) and 2/3 Ivette’s  Zinfandel/Misión field blend with Grenache grown here in the Valle de Guadalupe. The bold fruit is from the Mexican vines and the color and body is from the French, according to our delightful hostess. The vineyard project in Languedoc is one of many innovative ventures spearheaded by local wine guru Hugo D’Acosta and now includes around 20 participants. When observing the velvety mouth-feel, Ivette commented in French, “C’est comme le petit jésus qui descend dans la gorge comme un maillot rouge de velours.” Which to the best of my poor translating abilities is more or less:  It’s like the little Jesus who goes down the throat as red velvet.  Hmmmmm. If anyone understands this lovely but perplexing phrase better than me, give me a shout! $25

The luscious wines we sampled at Tres Mujeres: La Mestiza, Terrazas Grenache, and Isme.

Our next stop was to be “la escuelita,” the “little” wine school which was founded in 2003 due to Hugo D’Acosta’s efforts to kickstart the artisanal wine movement back in the late nineties. Thomas Egli, Hugo’s Swiss born enologist and right-hand man was enthusiastic about hosting Chef John and entourage for a tour and tasting from the barrels. Unfortunately our visit coincided with the staff’s holiday party and we were unable to rearrange our schedules. So we’ve shelved that excursion for Chef John’s next trip to the valley ….

It turned out to be more than propitious to skip the escuelita tour because there is only so much you can fit into a day …. We headed to our next destination: Vinícola Torres Alegre y familía.

Torres Alegre on a recent sunny day.

We were running a bit behind in schedule …. It was raining. The roads were impressively awful. I entertained my guests with one of Hugo’s famous quips: “Good roads, bad tourists. Bad roads, good tourists!” Very Lao Tzu, Hugo! We were good tourists on this rather gloomy day and just as remarkably cheerful about our wine valley adventure as the day was wet and cold.

Chef John Ash with Leo Torres

Leo Torres, son of Dr. Victor Torres met us at the winery and as it turned out in a particularly Mexican form of serendipity, we were right on time. Dr. Torres was educated in Bordeaux and his son Leo was born there. Fortunately for us, Leo speaks excellent English (as well as Spanish, French and Japanese) and his passion for winemaking, his admiration of his father’s accomplishments, and his understanding and enthusiasm of the methods used at Torres Alegre had us thoroughly spellbound.

Chef Mei and Liz at Torres Alegre

We sampled the following three wines:

2011 “Del Viko” 100% French Colombard. This refreshing white wine is characterized by a hint of sweetness with pineapple, peach and citrus notes. This was Chef Mei’s favorite pick of the day and she went home with a bottle. The “Del Viko” line of wine was developed by Victor Torres junior who thought the winery ought to produce affordable and more accessible wines alongside their award winning premium vintages. $20

2003 “La Llave Tinta,” a Bordeaux styld blend of 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot. This wine develops over time in the glass, opening with red fruit, basil and tobacco, then exhibiting leather and mint as it lengthens. Honestly this is not a go-to wine for me but it is sophisticated and distinctive and most assuredly an amazing pairing with lamb and mint jelly. $44

The 2006 “Cru Garage” Grenache, was today’s all-around winner which is no surprise. It took the Gold Medal in the 2012 International Wine & Spirits tasting competition held in Valladolid, Spain. This robust Grenache is an epiphany of hibiscus flowers, raspberry and dark cherry. It is savory and full-bodied without sacrificing the lovely red fruit expected in a Grenache and has a long spicy (white pepper?) finish. “Cru” suggests the quality of the fruit and the high standards of vinification demanded at the winery. “Garage” refers to the winery’s humble beginnings making wine wherever they could find space. An unforgettable vintage. $67

Award winning Cru Garage Grenache. Killer.

Feeling edified, educated and thrillingly wine-lubed (though quite chilled), we now eagerly set out for our next destination: foooooood.

Next stop: Corazón de Tierra.

One of the best places to wine and dine in Valle de Guadalupe!

I’ve chosen to separate this mega-post into two parts. Hope you’ll join me again for more tasting adventures in the Valle de Guadalupe with me, my friend Liz, and Chefs John Ash and Mei Ibach. Salud!

Corazon de Tierra in the late afternoon

More info on Chef John Ash and Chef Mei Ibach:

chefjohnash.com

malaysiamei.com

Lighten up with savory, Saigon Crepes for the new year | Kitchen Talk

We talked about water, salt, the seasons and the glitter of tartaric acid crystals sparkling like crushed starlight in his just-barreled 2012 Merlot. It was truly an elemental conversation with wine maker, Camilo Magoni, who has been crafting wine in Valle de Guadalupe since 1965.

I was completely charmed by “Mr. Magoni”

After a few pleasantries I launched into my purpose for meeting with him. I asked him how to make Amarone, the dry, robust Italian raisin wine of my dreams. Who best to ask than an Italian winemaker? Naturally he knew the answers to my questions and in his blue-eyed, silver-haired, disarming manner demystified the process. Mr. Magoni, as his employees affectionately refer to him, hails from a little village north of Milan near the border of Switzerland. Sfursat di Valtellina is the local Amarone-styled version in Italy’s northernmost region and is made entirely from Nebbiolo grapes that have been dried to increase their sugar and alcohol content. The name Sfursat is derived from the traditional method of forzatura delle uve (forcing the grapes) to obtain higher concentration in the fruit. It was fascinating to listen as this esteemed winemaker rambled on about the old country and the wines made there. There seems to be no Italian wine or wine making method that he is unfamiliar with. Dear Readers, mark my word: I am bound and determined to try my hand at this aged, full-bodied raisin wine that has captured my imagination, so stay tuned.

Some people see dried grapes, I see Amarone

We talked about grapes and which varietals best express the terroir (or terruño) of Mexico. Every winemaking area has its poster child that represents the region. Argentina has Malbec, Chile has Carménère, Uruguay has Tannat, Australia has Shiraz, etc, etc. There is a great deal of discussion among winemakers here about which varietal should represent Mexico. Some say Tempranillo (a grape I intend to work with next year). Some say Nebbiolo. Others point to the dry-farmed old vines planted by missionaries that produce highly concentrated fruit, such as Carignan and Grenache Noir. Others say that Mexico does not need a single varietal to epitomize the wines produced here, claiming that innovation is our strong suit and the wines speak for themselves.

I may get some of my grapes from Camilo’s vineyards next year

Camilo has an experimental vineyard with 106 different varietals. What excites him after so many years of winemaking is working with these new varietals. He stressed how it takes many years to understand a new vine and that it’s impossible to predict how it will adapt to the region, hence it is too early yet to claim that any one grape can represent the valley. It also takes time and a lot of trial and error to learn how to vinify a new varietal in order to get the best expression of the grape. As an example he introduced Sangiovese in 1989 and said that it took him fifteen years to understand the vine and its expression here.

Sampling this year’s Merlot in the garden

It was a balmy December afternoon and I was comfortable in short sleeves and a skirt. We sat outdoors in one of Cetto’s many shady arbors where a light breeze wafted in over the still leafy vineyards and persistently flowering rosebushes and Mr. Magoni greeted guests warmly and delegated to his employees with ease. Every time I expressed regret for taking his time, he dismissed my apologies with a wave of his hand and resumed our delightful conversation.

Iker uncorks the 1928 with panache

Later we went indoors and he requested a bottle of their 2006 commemorative wine “1928” so named for the 80^th anniversary of L.A. Cetto which will be next year. 1928 is an Italian blend of Aglianico, Sangiovese, and Barbera, with a touch of Nebbiolo. We commented on the savoriness of dried fruit on the palate which Camilo believes is more characteristic of Mexican wine that the overly touted “saltiness.” (However, he has not yet tried my Barbera. We agreed to take up the conversation of salt and Mexican wine another time).

“1928″ a distinctive Italian blend to be released next year

By the way, I tasted from my barrels today and (with the exception of the Barbera) am fascinated and pleased with the evolution of the wines. The Syrah now displays distinctive black pepper and structured tannins which will become more supple with time. The combination of savory meatiness with lush fruit and minerality is very promising. I think it will be a complex and interesting wine. The Mourvédre (still my favorite) has the black fruit and lovely mid-palate that I’m looking for with floral notes and a touch of anise that really excites me. However, I was most surprised with the Grenache. Until today I had not noticed any remarkable evolution of this wine so the aroma of fresh raspberries on my first whiff completely knocked me off my socks! The fresh fruit had been there before but now it is becoming more pronounced. The experimental blend I made today of Mourvédre and Grenache with a splash of the Syrah was pretty sensational. Iker and I visited the Cabernet today too. We both agree that blending the barreled wine with the wine from the glass carboys showcases the best characteristics of this wine.

Iker with our Cab at la escuelita. The “baby” is doing fine …

I must confess that I become quite easily captivated with any experienced winemaker who is willing to take the time to mentor me and I am under the spell of Mr. Magoni’s casual Italian style. His confidence, warmth, and easy elegance have won me over. I look forward to our next visit.

Beautiful dry-farmed old vines glowing with Fall colors

Grapevines sporting beautiful Fall colors

I did excitedly entertain the notion of making raisin wine after not finding any more suitable grapes in the field for traditional fermentation. My friend, Roberta, sent me a link elucidating the history of raisin wine in ancient Greece. Further investigation led me to the study of “Straw” wines made in Italy, so named because the grapes were dried after harvest on straw mats. My heart sank as I realized it was not simply a matter of culling any odd variety of wrinkled raisins left in the vineyard and putting them through the fermentation methods I had so eagerly learned and applied this year. This highly prized and labor intensive wine-style has been utilized in a few regions since pre-Roman times and involves specific varietals and quite a bit of aging. These robust wines are not meant to be consumed young. They generally are aged for three to ten years in order to turn out these irresistible elixirs.

Roberta and I in Buenos Aires where we met in 2009

My palate is keen to discover Amarone, Recioto and Passito …. dense, highly concentrated, aromatic and sometimes sweet wines better known in their  native homes of Veneto, Valpolicella and the island of Pantelleria  (located halfway between Sicily and Tunisia). So I was delighted to discover that my friend, Alex Acevedo, Sommelier at L.A. Cetto has experience with these wines. Alex whet my appetite and my imagination with his winetasting tales. Aahhhhhh, Amarone sounds like a heaven sent nectar of Bacchus and his denizens. What distinguishes Amarone from the other raisin wines that I’ve been studying is that it is dry with no residual sugars, exhibits spicy dark fruit and is noted for its velvety mouth feel and finesse. I am dying to understand the process. And my investigations continue ….

Ariana and Alex on a recent winetasting adventure

One of the things that I love about wine culture is how convivial it is. The other day I ventured over to Vinícola Torres Alegre in my little neighborhood of Porvenir and caught up with Leo Torres. My purpose was to see if they knew of any corrections for salty wine. Naturally a glass of wine was offered and we sat and chatted at length about sourcing out good grapes, new projects at the winery and the innovative methods they utilize for their premium wines. I didn’t find a correction for my wine but I left feeling thoroughly edified and grateful to have made so many genuine and generous friends in the wine making industry here.

Sharing vino and thoughts on salty grapes with Leo at Torres Alegre

A week or so ago I took samples of my wines to Barón Balché. Winemaker, Jesús Rivera was one of the first friends I made in the valley. I bought my Grenache fruit from him and he has been extraordinarily helpful with practical advice about wine making methods and procedures whenever I catch up with him. I passed by to see the results of the analyses the other day and he informed me that all of my wines have completed malolactic fermentation! Woo hoooo! Malolactic is the secondary “fermentation” that occurs after yeast has converted all the available sugar to alcohol. MLF involves a bacteria which converts the tart green-apple malic acid into rounder, smoother, sometimes buttery lactic acids, which lends complexity and also helps to stabilize the wine. Now it’s time to rack the wine off its lees. Do what to its whose-it, whats-it? Lees is just fancy wine-makery vocab referring to sediment which is composed of dead yeast and other particles which settles to the bottom of the tank or barrel during fermentation. And racking means separating the wine from the sediment. This is desirable to avoid off flavors and aromas which might be lurking in the lees.

Jesús in his extensive cava at Barón Balché

In my case, racking the wine is a festive and convivial occasion which includes a borrowed wine pump and my friend José Morfín who has been working with wine his entire adult life here in the Valley. We’ll take the window out of my “cava” so that the empty barrels can be hauled out and washed real good before returning the wine to them. We’ll share libations and a few victuals, listen to music, talk shop and get the job done. Perhaps we’ll talk about how to make raisin wine ….. I can always dream, right?

Morfín (on the right) with his little brother, Daniel, at Rancho Codocana

Thanks for setting me on the raisin wine path, Roberta. There’ll be more on this subject down the road!

Vineyards glowing with afternoon light

Taking my dogs for a run in a post-harvest vineyard. The excitement is over till next year.

Against last week’s backdrop of frenzied 2012 Presidential campaigning I found myself rooting around in the dry, yellow-leafed vineyards of my tranquil Guadalupe Valley looking for grapes that hadn’t turned to raisins yet. While pundits of every stripe weighed in with their predictions for the election I was on the phone texting local growers and winemakers …. Does anyone still have fruit for sale? As the hopes and fears of the USA peaked in anticipation of election results I absorbed myself with the tasks that will ensure my livelihood for another year in beloved Mexico. I contacted everyone I could think of who might have a lead on late harvest grapes. In part I wanted to make up for the disappointment of my salty Barbera (more on that later) and try my hand again at carbonic maceration. In part I just wanted to keep the momentum going, I did not and still don’t want to stop. And in part, working at the very mundane tasks of daily survival was a necessary balance to the furious political rhetoric of the highly emotional and polarized race for Presidency.

I guess I’ll pass on making raisin wine this year …

The election is over. The harvest is finished. There are no more grapes in the field, and life goes on …

Iker, with Ariana and Lalo at Paralelo’s lab exhorting me to stop looking for more grapes to vinify this year.

I was with my friend Iker one day last week and he said: “SITARA: STOP MAKING WINE! You’ve made ENOUGH. Now just take care of your babies. You can make more next year.” I’m perfectly satisfied to wait four years for another Presidential election but waiting nine months till I can harvest more grapes is agony! If I could I would do this year-round. Hmmmm, I wonder if it’s possible that there are grapes still on the vine somewhere else in the world at any given time. Australia maybe? What a gas it would be to spend 2 or 3 months in each major (or minor) grape growing region around the world, participating in the harvest and learning their vinification methods. Wow, what a thought. Manic? Moi? That would be the ultimate in following my bliss. No harm in dreaming I say.

Gettin’ peaceful with my vino

Several days ago I sampled from my barrels. The wines are bright, young and fruity with a touch of tightness in the tannins which I attribute to the agitation of racking then moving the wine from the living room to the spare room. I believe that my babies will settle down and soften up in the cold and dark over the winter. It’s a thrill to observe their development and will be fascinating to see how barreling will shape their maturation.

Winemakers Alberto Rubio and Tom Toscano at the Valley’s iconic Casa Vieja

That’s the good news. The bad news is that I racked the Barbera again and am still not happy with this quirky wine. Actually I panicked and decided the wine was no good. I called my winemaking friend Tom Toscano and told him I wanted to distill and make Brandy out of it. He told me that I was jumping the gun and to give it some time. So I’m going to give it some time …. But my gut feeling was that the only way to recuperate this wine other than to distill it was to get another barrel and age it. I spoke with another of my mentors, Andres Blanco and he concurred that I should relax, barrel the Barbera and use it to blend. It could be just the right savory element that the Syrah will need, for instance. The Barbera was to be my first release, my Vin Nouveau. It is in the barrel now maturing with all the others, however.  There will be no Valley Girl Autumn wine this year. We will have to wait for Spring for the earliest bottling.

Andrés Blanco of Laja Restaurant fame has been a generous mentor my first year making wine

Why was I so unhappy with the Barbera, you ask? It’s salty. Not a pleasant hint of the sea found in many Australian and some French wines which is an expected savory expression of the “terroir” of these regions, but a full-on assault of salinity. Another friend, Jose Morfín who works for both Monte Xanic and Nativo tactfully called it “minerally.” You may recall, Dear Readers, that my Barbera harvest was distressful. The fruit came covered in mud with many damaged clusters and very uneven ripeness. I spent nine hours with the help of two local women cleaning and sorting the grapes and threw out six crates that were unusable to me. Good wine begins with good fruit, i.e., good vineyard management and a clean harvest. I learned an important lesson this year. Like the nation I harken from, just north of the border, I draw strength from my victories and learn from my mistakes. But always will keep my eyes fixed on that distant horizon …. Viva el Vino!

The baby barrel on the end is the savory Barbera that I’ve chosen to age for a bit

And that, my friends, is my State of Libation Address for today. Onward and upward!

Our local cooper, Bernandino, has over 20 years experience making barrels and learned his trade in Napa Valley. We’re so lucky to have him!

I finished paying for and picked up my last barrel. It was the only new one I bought. The other three are reconditioned, heavy toast French oak barrels from local cooper, Bernandino Guttierez. I chose a heavy toast for the Grenache and Mourvédre because a heavy toast seals the grain for less wood extraction and more emphasis on fresh fruit which is the style I’m looking for in these wines. My long awaited new barrel came from Radoux, a well-known barrel making company in Napa Valley. I chose it for the Syrah which is the most tannic, robust wine I’m making by myself this year and will age for 9 to 12 months, though I think it already tastes pretty good. The barrel maker says of my choice: “Appalachian oak barrels have pepper and spice and a long, lemon cream finish.” Medium plus toast is described as “The apex of aromatic potential, adding pronounced vanilla, sweet chocolate, maple syrup and spice.” Wow. Right? Barrel shopping is like a trip to the pâtisserie and makes my mouth water!

My little rental house in Baja California, Mexico

Originally my plan was to put all the barrels in the spare room of my little rental house where I can keep them cool and dark. Unfortunately the first barrel I brought home fit through the front door (thank goodness) but not through the interior door to the spare room. So by default it ended up in my unfurnished living room with two others. The weather is changing and a chill is setting in. Autumn temperatures are lovely during the day and very cold at night. I have no heat in my house except for a fireplace. If I continued to keep my full wine barrels in the living room then I would not be able to use the fireplace because the heat and dryness would not be good for the wine.

I really love my fireplace. Now all I need is an over-stuffed chair and a cup of hot spiced wine!

Rather than buy a parka and fur boots to keep myself from hypothermia this winter I got the idea to call my friend, Chico, a local carpenter and see if he had any ideas. It’s really hard to measure the width of a barrel because the ends are smaller than the middle, but he figured that if he took the door molding off that the barrels would fit through the doorway to the spare room. A few days ago he came with his helper Toño and a borrowed wine pump because full wine barrels are next to impossible to move– even empty barrels take two people (that’s one reason why my back has gotten stronger and my shoulders are crying).

A wine pump is on my wishlist!

Long story short two barrels fit through the door after the molding was taken down. Yay! The other two didn’t. Grrrrr. Nonplussed, these two guys set to work taking one of the windows out of the spare room in which to heave the barrels through! This was no easy feat because there were 3 or 4 different types of screws and nails covered in paint and caulking that framed the window …. Ugh. Plus it’s one thing to lift a barrel a few inches off the ground to move it around but they had to lift those wine-soaked puppies waist high to get them through the window! But they didn’t give up.

These guys are my heroes!

Getting those barrels through the window was a heroic feat, the wine is in a much better place for the winter and I’m relieved that I can use my fireplace and open the curtains to let the sunshine into my primary living space! However when it comes time to bottle the Grenache and Mourvédre in the Spring we’re going to have to take the window out again ….

Hunkered down for a long, chilly winter in Casa mi Cava